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Issue 35, 2007



Herefords (Flavia Bacarella)


19th-century market gardening near metropolitan New York. by Tracy Frisch

Tastemaker: Agnes Devereux of The Village Tea Room. a Valley Table series

In the house. photo essay by John Jordan


Good stuff: Farm/chef dinner; American General Store; Rockland school food; Wine and beer picks; Books; Letters.

March-May 07 Events

Other voices: Our food, as Congress makes it. by Tracy Frisch

Openings: Amici Sushi; Charlotte’s; Garden Cafe; La Puerta Azul; Phoenix; Flying Pig; Local 111; Tapenade.

CSA projects in the Hudson Valley.

Up close: Guy Jones of Blooming Hill Farm. by Jennifer Warren

At home in the kitchen: The 3Rs. a Valley Table series

Eating by the season: What’s your beef? by Anne Dailey

By the glass: To B or not to BYOB? by Steven Kolpan

Locally grown: Terra Madre and Slow Food; Observations at the Salone del Gusto. by Keith Stewart & Flavia Bacarella

The kitchen garden: Get to the root of it. by Barry Ballister

Last call: Oh, what a lovely fork. essay by Abby Luby


Dingle pies with flaky cream cheese pie crust (Agnes Devereux / The Village Tea Room)

Potato and Toussaint tart (Agnes Devereux / The Village Tea Room)

Chocolate Guinness cake with stout creme anglaise (Agnes Devereux / The Village Tea Room)

Beef ragu (David Wurth / Local 111)

Red wine braised beef (Sam Ullman / Bywater Bistro)

Cottage pie with root vegetables (Shelly Boris / Fresh Company)

Roasted parsnip soup (Micchael Reardon)

Red Wine Braised Beef

By Chef Sam Ullman / Bywater Bistro Serves 4 Ingredients 4 piece beef shin (about 1 1/4-inch thick) 8 slices farmer’s bread 2 carrots, diced 1 1/2 cups celery root,

Beef Ragu

Chef David Wurth / Local 111 Serves 4-6 Ingredients 1/4 cup olive oil 2 pounds grassfed beef for braising (stew meat, brisket or shank), cut into 2- to 3-inch cubes

Roasted Parsnip Soup

Michael Reardon / Bistro Zella Ingredients 6 cups chicken or vegetable stock 1 pound parsnips 1/2 medium onion 6 good-size garlic cloves, unpeeled, crushed with the side of a knife

Beacon Kitchen Rebuild, The 3 R’s

Mark Roland didn’t have tens of thousands of dollars to spend on his kitchen, nor did his modest Beacon city home call for such a budget. But he does have

Dingle Pies

Agnes Devereux, The Village Tearoom Dingle is mountainous sheep country in the west of Ireland where that long wild peninsula plunges into the Atlantic Ocean. Traditionally these pies were made

Potato and Toussaint Tart

Agnes Devereux, The Village Tearoom This delicious tart is dense with potatoes cooked in cream and herbs and redolent of Toussaint cheese. It was inspired by an après ski tart

Agnes Devereux of the Village Tea Room

Agnes Devereux never intended to own an inn or a restaurant. As a young girl in Ireland, she saw how hard her mother worked at it. But then, living and

Beef Ragu

Chef David Wurth, Local 111 A ragu sauce is one of the classic Italian preparations. This one employs slow-braising that results in a rich, hearty sauce with chunks of beef

What’s Your Beef?

THE AVERAGE AMERICAN eats 67 pounds of beef a year—as burgers, in winter stews, roasted slowly in the oven, and even raw. But all beef is not created equal. Those

Hudson Valley Restaurant Week is back this April 8-21!