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Issue 55, 2011



Super-deluxe Ronald & Richard. by Dan Shapely

Farmers get fracked. by Tracy Frisch

The Valley Table does a kitchen. a Valley Table series

The theory of tables. by Abby Luby


Editors’s letter: Musings on a tom.

Good stuff: Hops reborn; farm/chef web connection; farm class; butcher book; kale chips; new wine; eat local challenge.

Openings: 2 Taste; Round House Patio; Brasserie 292; Panzur; Paula’s.

Events: September-November 11

By the glass: Hudson Valley Reisling: Neustadt 90 and Geisenheim 198. by Steven Kolpan.

Locally grown: The school of hard rocks. by Keith Stewart.

Eating by the season: Garlic. by Robin Cherry.

A guide to Hudson Valley beef.

Deja vu: Garden to table, circa 1650. by Peter G. Rose.

On the plate: Duck confit. by Greg Weber.



Roasted garlic soup (Josh Kroner/Terrapin)

Pan-roasted poussin with lemon and garlic (Michel Jean/Stissing House)

Vegetable goat cheese terrine (Franz Brendle/Nina)

Pear tart (Peter Rose)

Candied quince squares (Peter Rose)

Dutch coleslaw (Peter Rose)



EVER BEEN TO A CARROT FESTIVAL? Probably not. But you can honor garlic (the stinking rose) at more than two dozen festivals in the United States—including one in Saugerties—as well

World Wide Farm

“THERE’S A LOT OF DEMAND for farm-fresh and local products and food, but not a great way for a wholesale buyer to order from these farms,” says David Ross, vice

Into the Meat of the Matter

IN 2004, JOSHUA AND JESSICA APPLESTONE opened Fleisher’s Grass-fed & Organic Meats in Kingston. Their aim was to provide locals (and themselves) with sustainable meat, as Jessica said at the

Hip Hops

ON A SATURDAY IN JULY, 45 farmers and others from the Hudson Valley, central New York, and as far away as Maryland and Vermont gathered in Tarrytown to learn about

Dutch Coleslaw

By Peter Rose Ingredients 4 tablespoons butter 1/3 cup wine vinegar salt and freshly ground pepper 2 cups green cabbage, cut into thin strips 2 cups red cabbage, cut into

Candied Quince Squares

By Peter Rose Candied quince is a delicious confection that will keep in a cool, dark and dry place all winter long. Ingredients 4 quinces, well scrubbed sugar Method Place

Pear Tart

By Peter Rose Ingredients Crust 2 cups all-purpose flour 1/3 cup packed light brown sugar 11 tablespoons (1 stick plus 3 tablespoons) cold, lightly salted butter, cut into pats 2

Pan-roasted Poussin with Lemon and Garlic

By Michel Jean, Stissing House Serves 2 Ingredients 2 poussins Marinade 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil 12 unpeeled garlic cloves 1 small bunch of thyme, separated 2 organic lemons,

Roasted Garlic Soup

By Josh Kroner / Terrapin Ingredients 1 pound Spanish onions, diced 3 cups peeled garlic cloves 1/4 cup light olive oil 1/2 cup Italian parsley leaves, cleaned well 1 cup

Musings On A Tom

WE’RE COMING INTO ALMOST EVERYBODY’S favorite season, at least for those who place food high on their list of priorities. However you approach food (we know for a fact that you

Duck Confit

ONCE YOU SINK YOUR TEETH into duck confit, you’ll know why chefs go to the trouble of making it. “I love to eat duck confit wherever I go, so that’s

Garden to Table, Circa 1650

FARM TO TABLE. THAT PHRASE now appears on menus, websites, blogs—it sounds so up-to-the-minute, so modern. Yet, looking at Het Vermakelijk Land-leven (The Pleasurable Country Life), a seventeenth-century Dutch gardening

Farmers Get Fracked

SLOPE FARM, IN THE DELAWARE COUNTY town of Meredith, has become one of the major producers of pasture-raised and finished beef for the metropolitan New York markets. But if fracking

Super-Deluxe Ronald & Richard

IF YOU DINE OUT WITH Richard Krueger and Ronald Hanson, there are certain givens. Richard will start with a martini, Ronald with a bottle of red wine (usually Italian), which they’ll

The School of Hard Rocks

OUR FARM HAS A LOT OF ROCKS— more than its fair share, I would say. The last glacier that receded some 15,000 years ago was particularly generous to us. Both

Vegetable Goat Cheese Terrine

Franz Brendle, Nina Serves 24 Ingredients 1 pound garlic cloves (about 60 cloves), peeled Extra-virgin olive oil Salt 2 tablespoons minced fresh rosemary 2 tablespoons minced fresh thyme 2 large

Hudson Valley Restaurant Week is back this April 8-21!