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Issue 58, 2012



Up close: Liana Hoodes. a Valley Table interview

Crown Maple chef’s challenge.

At home in the kitchen: A table for three, or four, or five. a Valley Table series


Editors’s letter: Logic need not apply.

Good stuff: Valley Table award; Cornwall cheesemaker; Snail award; Farmers fight back; Label law.

New & Noteworthy: Lagusta’s Luscious; Roundhouse; Farmer & the Fish; The Hop; Krause’s Chocolates; Newburgh Brewing.

Events: June-August 12

By the glass: Warm weather reds; chill out. by Steven Kolpan.

Eating by the season: Maple syrup matures. by Greg Weber.

New crop: Barbara Felton & Will Brown, Lowland Farm. by Abby Luby

New crop: Lynn Faurie & Barbara Masterson, B&L 4E Farm. by Abby Luby

Municipal Farmers’ Markets in the Hudson Valley

Up close: Libery Public House. by Robin Cherry

On the plate: Notes from a trout dinner. by Bobby & Becky Marino



Crown Maple Mack & Jack (Justin Montgomery/Harper’s)

Roasted heirloom beets with house-whipped Maple ricotta & pistachio oil (James Kelly/Restaurant X)

Maple brined grilled pork chops with Calvados demi glace and maple-bacon almonds (Josh Kroner/Terrapin)

Crown Maple pannacotta (Pasqual Dedi/Zuppa)

Fresh caught trout with orzo and baby bok choy (Bobby & Becky Marino)

The Future of Farmers’ Markets

THE HUDSON VALLEY HAS AN embarrassment of riches when it comes to fresh farm products. And as the popularity and interest in fresh produce seems to be continually growing, so,

Restaurant Week 2012 Crown Maple Chef’s Challenge

A NEW ASPECT OF THIS year’s Hudson Valley Restaurant Week, the Crown Maple Chef’s Challenge, stoked the chef’s competitive fires, inviting participating chefs to create a recipe with Crown Maple syrup.

Logic Need Not Apply

YOU’D THINK THAT THE PRIMARY subjects of this magazine—growing, selling, preparing and eating food—would be governed by simple, straightforward logic and practiced by reasonable people. Farmers, after all, tend to

Notes From A Trout Dinner

EARLY MAY: BROWN TROUT AND WILD, native brook trout caught on a Mepps in Sprout Creek in Pleasant Valley, near home. They don’t come any better than this. Got home,

Lynn Faurie & Barbara Masterson, B&L 4E Farm

OWNED AND OPERATED BY Lynn Faurie and Barbara Masterson, B&L 4E Farm is a fourth-generation, certified organic farm that sells organic, pasture-raised beef and chicken. The farm also sells organic,

Barbara Felton & Will Brown

THE LORE OF WARWICK SAYS THAT Lowland Farm is named for the flat expanse of rich, grassy pastures and fields that slope into lofty hills skirted by the rambling Pochuck

Warm Weather Reds

WITH WELCOME WARM WEATHER UPON US, most wine and food enthusiasts think about light wines to pair with the season’s light foods. And when we think light, most often we

Cornwall Says Cheese

IT TOOK NEARLY FIVE YEARS OF PLANNING and countless hours of sitting before the Town Board before Talitha Thurau received permission to build a micro-dairy and creamery on Angola Road

A Table for Three, or Four, or Five

PASCALE LEDRAOULEC IS NO STRANGER to kitchens. A former restaurant critic for the New York Daily News, the author of American Pie: Slices of Life (and Pie) from America’s Back Roads (Harper Perennial, 2003),

Liana Hoodes

LIANA HOODS HAS BEEN DEFINING the integrity of organic food and agriculture in the national arena since 1994. The former vice president of Middletown-based Orange Environment, she became “frustrated at

Crown Maple Mack & Jack

Justin Montgomery, Harper’s Ingredients 2 ounces Tuthilltown Spirits Hudson Four Grain Bourbon 1 ounce sage-maple syrup (Crown Maple syrup steeped with fresh sage and orange zest) Method Prepare the steeped

Hudson Valley Restaurant Week is back this April 8-21!