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Issue 71, 2015

ISSUE 71: Sept.-Nov. 2015


Ship Lantern Inn: At Your Service By Robin Cherry, photos by Adam Kurtz

Amarcord: The Restaurant By Marissa Sertich Velie, photos by Ann Stratton


Editors’s letter: All the News That Fits

Good stuff: Biosecurity: Flu Shots, Common Core: Sowing Seeds, Experiment in Cider, Garlic: Signed and Sampled, Letters: Gluten-Free, Stripped of Stripers, Tank to Table, Tapped Out: New Brews

Openings: Copake Wine Works, Daughters Fare & Ale, Gaskins, Harry’s Hot Sandwiches, Kitchen Sink, Market North, Ole Savannah Southern Table & Bar, Palate Wine & Spirits

Drink: Hop to It By Timothy Buzinski

Eating by the Season: Heaven on the Half Shell text by Robin Cherry

Locally Grown: The Garlic Chronicles text by Keith Stewart


Ship Lantern Inn: Cauliflower soup with apple chutney (Dana Calabrese, Ship Lantern Inn)

Ship Lantern Inn: Chateaubriand (Dana Calabrese, Ship Lantern Inn)

Ship Lantern Inn: Blooming apple (Dana Calabrese, Ship Lantern Inn)

Café Amarcord: Soft polenta and mushroom fricassee (Rifo Murtovic, Cafe Amarcord)

Café Amarcord: Fettuccine with quail (Rifo Murtovic, Cafe Amarcord)

Eating by the Season: Pan-fried oysters with Champagne butter (Greg McDowell, Ruby’s Oyster Bar & Bistros)

Eating by the Season: Warm Cotuit oysters gratin (Glenn Vogt, RiverMarket Bar & Kitchen)

Eating by the Season: Chilled Cotuit oysters with apple cider sorbet (Glenn Vogt, RiverMarket Bar & Kitchen)

Eating by the Season: Fried oysters with apple-bacon chutney (Hektor Dajo, Blu Pointe)

Eating by the Season: Riesling mignonette (Hektor Dajo, Blu Pointes)

Eating by the Season: Oysters Rockefeller (Hektor Dajo, Blu Pointe)

Cauliflower Soup with Apple Chutney

Dana Calabrese / Ship Lantern Inn Serves 4 Ingredients 1 head cauliflower, cut into florets 1 onion, coarse chop 3 garlic cloves, halved 5 cups vegetable stock 1 14-ounce can

Tank to Table

A WAREHOUSE ON LIBERTY STREET in Newburgh is an unlikely site for a shrimp farm. ECO Shrimp Garden, opened in August, offers Hudson Valley—grown shrimp. The Brazilian-born Jean Claude Frajmund

All the News That Fits

“BREAKING NEWS” IS NOT SOMETHING that means much to a quarterly magazine, but many of the issues we address—on this page, in Good Stuff or as feature material— remain pertinent even

Tapped Out: New Brews

INNOVATIVE PARTNERSHIPS AMONG HUDSON VALLEY brewers and distillers are producing some interesting and delicious new products. Black Dirt Distillery is teaming with Doc’s Draft Hard Cider (both in Warwick) on a new

Seaworthy: Stripped of Stripers

IF A BIRD IN THE HAND IS worth two in the bush, what’s a striped bass worth? Though the Hudson’s most popular fish isn’t officially endangered (or even threatened), its

Letters: Gluten-Free

GLUTEN-FREE: YAY To the editor: Thank you for the well-researched and informative article about eating, enjoying and living life on a gluten-free diet [“A Gluten-Free Primer,” Valley Table 70, June–August

Experiment in Cider: Harder is Better

TO WALK GEOFF THOMPSON’S APPLE orchards with him is to witness a man truly enamored with his farm. To hear him discuss the finer points of the conical, russeted Hudson’s Golden Gem

Common Core: Sowing Seeds

IN A BEACON ELEMENTARY SCHOOL’S GARDEN on a cloudy summer Tuesday, parent volunteers were joined by some unexpected company. One woman was weeding, though she has no kids in the school—she

Biosecurity: Flu Shots

SINCE DECEMBER 2014, MORE THAN 6 million domestic chickens and turkeys have been euthanized as a consequence of the latest avian flu outbreak. Thus far limited in the U.S. mainly

Blooming Apple

Dana Calabrese, The Ship Lantern Inn Ingredients Apples​ 2 apples, cored and sliced nearly to base 4 packaged caramels 2 teaspoons cinnamon 2 teaspoons flour 1/4 teaspoon ground ginger 2

Cauliflower Soup

Dana Calabrese, The Ship Lantern Inn Ingredients 1 head cauliflower, cut into florets 1 onion, coarse chop 3 garlic cloves, halved 5 cups vegetable stock 1 14-ounce can coconut milk


Dana Calabrese, The Ship Lantern Inn Ingredients Beef Tenderloin 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 20-ounce center-cut beef tenderloin kosher salt and pepper to taste Bordelaise sauce 1 teaspoon butter

Pan-fried Oysters with Champagne Butter

Greg McDowell, Ruby’s Oyster Bar & Bistro / Photos by Simon Feldman 1 serving Ingredients 5 fresh oysters 1 egg, beaten 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour salt and pepper to taste

Apple Cider Sorbet & Oysters

Glenn Vogt, RiverMarket Bar & Kitchen / Photos by Simon Feldmanman Serves 1 or 2 Ingredients 1 quart Thompson’s Cider Mill apple cider juice from 2 freshly squeezed lemons 1/4 cinnamon

Fried Oysters

Don Clark, Frogmore Tavern / Photos by Jerry Novesky Serves 1 or 2 Ingredients Apple-Bacon Chutney 1 quart Thompson’s Cider Mill apple cider 1 pound bacon, small dice 2 tablespoons

Oysters Rockefeller

Hektor Dajo, Blu Pointe / Photos by Ann Stratton Makes 16 1-ounce servings Ingredients For Riesling Migonette 1 1/2 cups Brotherhood Riesling 1 cup Champagne vinegar 1/2 cup sliced shallots

Fettuccine with Quail

Rifo Murtovic, Café Amarcord Serves 4 Ingredients 2 roasted quail, meat removed and shredded 2 carrots, fine chop 2 celery stalks, fine chop 1/2 large onion, fine chop 2 bay

Hudson Valley Restaurant Week is back this April 8-21!