8 N Broadway, Nyack
845.353.1200; thegreekish.com 

Even before the pandemic, Chef Constantine Kalandranis had begun to notice a shift in customers’ attitudes, away from fussy fine dining toward more casual, less expensive restaurants. When an issue with the town forced renovations at his Nyack mainstay, 8 North Broadway, Kalandranis decided to flip the concept and reopen as The Greekish, an affordable meze bar. 

Each section of the small-plates menu — most dishes are priced at less than $15 — features modern riffs on familiar Greek and Mediterranean favorites. Start with spreads, including meltingly tender, harissa-spiced eggplant and silky yellow-split-pea hummus infused with lemon and olive oil, or raw bar selections like oysters with horseradish mignonette, tuna tabbouleh, and lobster salad stuffed into a superb, puffy, house-made pita. 

Vegetables include charred Brussels sprouts with oregano and feta, and “cauliflower crack” that could convert even brassica haters. Pair those with goat-milk feta croquettes, hand-rolled keftedes, classic spinach pie, and/or a brisket gyro. A small selection of larger plates includes oregano hanger steak and sizzling Spanish octopus (a customer favorite from 8 North Broadway). 

Nearly all wines hail from Greece and surrounding regions, including Macedonia and Crete, while a short cocktail list showcases Greek ingredients. (Order an ouzo sour, made with the anise-flavored aperitif, fresh grapefruit juice, and sumac.) The restaurant is also tip-free, with any gratuities going to a staff fund to facilitate bonuses, promotions, and paid vacations. 

Open Mon and Wed–Sun, 4–9 p.m.