610 Warren St, Hudson
Earlier this year, 30-year-old Daniel Bagnall found himself at a career crossroads. After six years cooking with The Oberon Group, which operates hip, natural-wine-focused Brooklyn spots, including June Wine Bar, Bagnall left the city and came up to the Hudson Valley. After stumbling across a narrow, vacant space on Warren Street in Hudson, he took the plunge and opened Sonder, one of the year’s most exciting new restaurants.
The whitewashed wine bar features roughly 30 natural selections, like Catalonian skin-contact wines, slightly chilled French reds, or rose pét-nat from Slovenia. (By-the-glass drinkers pick a style and get a pour of that day’s picks.)
There’s a locally sourced cheese, charcuterie, and pickle plate, but where Bagnall really wows is with his selection of sharing-ready, vegetable-forward dishes. Craggy, crunchy pieces of cucumber soak up a magic elixir of Seed + Mill tahini, honey-infused Catskill Provisions cider vinegar, and sweet currants. Half moons of delicata squash sit atop a swoosh of slightly bitter, wholly addictive, burnt-garlic aioli. And, thin links of lamb merguez sausage spill their fragrant juices onto slices of brown-butter-soaked house-made focaccia, the whole mess topped with a refreshing tangle of celery and green apple.
If that’s not enough to entice, Sonder also plans to host guest chef dinners and themed pop-up nights.
Open Tues–Sat, 3–10 p.m.